Why Merlot is Making a Comeback For years, Merlot lived in the shadow of its bolder, more fashionable cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon
Once a darling of the wine world, its reputation was famously—and perhaps unfairly—tarnished by a single line in a popular film. Yet today, a quiet revolution is underway. From boutique vineyards to esteemed wine lists, Merlot is experiencing a remarkable and well-deserved renaissance. This isn’t just a nostalgic blip; it’s a comeback built on quality, versatility, and a renewed appreciation for what this classic grape does best.
Moving Beyond the Sideways Effect
The early 2000s saw Merlot’s popularity plummet, largely influenced by the movie *Sideways*, where the protagonist famously declared, “I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!” This cultural moment led many to dismiss the grape as simple, uninteresting, or merely a blending component. However, this critique also sparked a positive reaction among winemakers. Determined to prove the grape’s worth, they shifted focus from high-yield, mass-produced bottles to crafting Merlots of distinction, terroir, and complexity.
The Rise of “Right Bank” Excellence
The global benchmark for sublime Merlot has always been France’s Bordeaux region, specifically the “Right Bank” appellations of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. Here, Merlot is the star, often blended with Cabernet Franc to create wines of profound elegance, silky texture, and aging potential. The sustained acclaim and high prices for wines like Château Pétrus (primarily Merlot) have constantly reminded the world of the grape’s noble potential. This standard has inspired winemakers from California to Chile, Italy to Washington State to pursue a similar ideal of excellence.
A New World Renaissance
The real engine of the comeback is happening in New World regions. Winemakers are now targeting cooler sites and specific clones that yield lower quantities of more concentrated fruit.
* California’s Recalibration: In Napa and Sonoma, producers are moving away from the overly ripe, jammy style of the 1990s. Instead, they are harvesting earlier to preserve acidity, using sophisticated oak regimens, and focusing on mountain and hillside vineyards. The result is structured, balanced Merlots with notes of fresh plum, black cherry, herbs, and fine-grained tannins.
* Washington State’s Star Power: The Columbia Valley has emerged as a global leader for Merlot. Its continental climate with hot days and cool nights is ideal, granting the grapes ripe flavors while retaining crucial freshness. Washington Merlots are consistently praised for their depth, aromatic complexity, and approachable yet serious character.
* The Value Frontiers: Regions like Chile’s Colchagua Valley, Italy’s Tuscany (where it’s often blended as a “Super Tuscan”), and even parts of Eastern Europe are delivering exceptional quality Merlot at accessible price points, introducing a new generation of drinkers to its pleasures.
What’s Driving the Demand?
Several key trends are aligning in Merlot’s favor:
In an era where many palates are moving away from overly alcoholic, heavily oaked, and tannic wines, Merlot’s natural profile is perfectly timed. A well-made Merlot offers a supple, rounded mouthfeel, approachable fruit, and softer tannins, making it instantly enjoyable yet complex enough to hold interest.
Merlot is arguably one of the most food-versatile red wines. Its moderate tannin and balanced acidity pair beautifully with a wide range of cuisine, from weeknight roast chicken and pasta to gourmet burgers, mushroom dishes, and even lightly spiced fare.
Wine professionals have been at the forefront of Merlot’s revival. Tired of the ubiquity of Cabernet, sommeliers are championing underdog grapes with great stories. High-quality Merlot offers superb value compared to equivalent-tier Cabernet, allowing restaurants to offer compelling, delicious options at a better price point.
Looking Ahead:
A Grape Reclaimed
The “Merlot comeback” is more than a trend; it’s a correction. It represents a return to judging the wine in the glass, not the grape on the label. Today’s Merlot is diverse, expressing the character of its soil and climate—from the iron-and-clay-driven power of Pomerol to the bright, red-fruited elegance of a cool Chilean vintage.
The next time you browse a wine list or shop the aisles, look past the old stigma. Seek out a Merlot from a respected producer in a dedicated region. You’ll likely discover a wine of surprising sophistication, velvety texture, and honest charm. Merlot hasn’t just returned; it has evolved, ready to be rediscovered on its own, well-earned merits. Cheers to the comeback kid.






